The manual gives a slack figure and a measurement point for a reason. Guessing at the tension is how a chain damages a countershaft bearing or wears out in a few thousand kilometres.
Prepare the bike
Put the bike in the position the manual specifies: side stand, centre stand or paddock stand. Clean the chain so you can see the adjusters and the axle.
Loosen the axle nut only after the bike is stable. Do not work under a bike held by a makeshift prop.
Measure the slack
Find the specified measurement point, usually midway between the sprockets. Push the chain up and down and measure the total movement. Compare with the manual figure.
Check the slack at several points around the chain. A tight spot means the chain is worn, not that the adjustment is wrong.
Adjust and align
Turn the adjusters equally and check the alignment marks. A misaligned wheel causes uneven wear and handling problems. Tighten the axle to the specified torque.
Re-check the slack after tightening; the axle can move as the nut is torqued.
Lubricate and test
Lubricate the chain and rotate the wheel to distribute it. Ride slowly and re-check the tension after the first ride.
A chain that is too tight is worse than one slightly loose. It loads the bearings and suspension.
Checklist
- Manual slack figure and measurement point.
- Chain condition and tight spots.
- Axle alignment marks.
- Axle nut torque.
- Adjuster condition and thread.
- Lubrication after adjustment.
- Re-check after the first ride.
Questions
How tight should a chain be?
Use the manual figure for your model, measured at the specified point. Too tight damages bearings; too loose can derail.
Can I adjust the chain on the side stand?
Follow the manual. Some bikes specify the side stand, others a centre stand or a loaded condition.
Why does the chain need adjusting every ride?
A chain that stretches quickly is worn or has tight spots. Replace it rather than adjusting constantly.
