Before touching a clicker, set the sag. A bike with the wrong sag will feel vague, run wide or bottom out no matter how the damping is adjusted.
Measure static sag
With the bike on a stand and the suspension fully extended, measure a fixed reference point on the axle to a point on the chassis. Then let the bike settle under its own weight and measure again. The difference is static sag.
Write the numbers down. Guessing at sag is how setups drift.
Measure rider sag
With the rider in full gear, seated in the normal position, measure again. The difference between extended and loaded is rider sag. Use the manual's target range.
For the front, measure fork travel with a zip tie or a ruler. A helper makes it easier.
Adjust preload
Turn the preload adjuster or rotate the shock collar to bring rider sag into range. Adjust the front and rear to the target, then re-measure.
If you run out of adjustment, the spring rate is wrong for your weight or load.
Record and test
Record the settings and the load (solo, passenger, luggage). Test on a known road and adjust damping one change at a time.
Sag is not a one-time setting. It changes with load, so keep notes for each configuration.
Checklist
- Fully extended and static measurements.
- Rider sag in full gear.
- Front and rear targets from the manual.
- Preload adjustment range.
- Spring rate for rider and load.
- Damping baseline settings.
- Notes for passenger and luggage.
Questions
Can I set sag alone?
It is easier with a helper, but a stand and a fixed reference let you do it alone. Measure carefully.
Does sag affect handling?
Yes. It sets ride height and weight distribution. A bike with too much sag feels vague and runs wide.
Should I set sag with luggage?
Set solo sag first, then note the change with luggage. If the rear cannot be brought back into range, the spring is too soft for the load.
